Custom House, Lancaster

Custom House, Lancaster, originally uploaded by Lancaster Today.

The Custom House, Lancaster Quay, built in 1765 and restored as Lancaster Maritime Museum in 1985.

The building has played a role in Lancaster's slave trade history, both as the place where merchants taxes would have been paid during that period, and today as a place where those links are presented for discussion.

NOTE: I'm on hols until Wed and having probs uploading pics, so unless I can get it sorted there will be a short hiatus on the blog.

Family looking, Sunderland Point

Family looking, Sunderland Point, originally uploaded by Lancaster Today.

Took Yumiko, Yasmin & Caolan to Sunderland Point today (after Caolan's birthday party, I might add - happy 8th birthday, little man). They looked around and liked what they saw.

On a beautiful day, we took the long way round to Sambo's grave, passing cows on the beach and much else besides (more tomorrow about that). Once there, Yasmin and Caolan took one look at the 'mushroom' tribute stones and sped the few steps back to the beach to collect some stones of their own. A few quick trips back and forth later, and here is their result:

Yasmin & Caolan's stones, Sambo's grave, Sunderland Point, originally uploaded by Lancaster Today.

Sambo's Grave, Sunderland Point

Sambo's grave sign, originally uploaded by Lancaster Today.

Note: This is the first of three posts in which I'll discuss things I enjoy doing in England. The first is exploring places of historical and political interest close to home. For more ideas on the theme of 'Exploring England', see the Guardian's Enjoy England pages.

For Sambo, originally uploaded by Lancaster Today.

There are often fascinating places on our doorstep which we don't take the time to explore. Perhaps it's because they are so close that we don't make the effort? They are not 'exotic' enough - something like that?

Anyway, I set out to Sunderland Point yesterday to see what it was all about, and, particularly, to visit Sambo's grave. Sambo? Who is Sambo? Surely you've heard of him, educated reader? But just in case you haven't, let me show off my newly-acquired knowledge to save you from your ignorance.

Sambo's grave is a memorial to a young, black slave who is believed to have arrived at the port in Sunderland Point by ship in 1736. He was an African stolen into slavery and first brought to the West Indies before beginning the long journey to Lancaster with his master. Unfortunately for Sambo (as if his life was not tragic enough), shortly after arrival he was taken ill and died near a local inn. Perhaps his immune system was not prepared for the infections carried by the North West Englanders?

Sambo was buried in an unmarked grave, until, in 1795, a certain Rev Watson led an effort to have a memorial erected. It is believed that this teacher penned the following elegy found on the grave:

Full sixty years the angry winter's wave

Has thundering dashed this bleak and barren shore

Since Sambo's head laid in this lonely grave

Lies still and ne'er will hear their turmoil more.

Full many a sandbird chirps upon the sod,

And many a moonlight elfin round him trips

Full many a summer's sunbeam warms the clod

And many a teeming cloud upon him drips.

But still he sleeps - till the awakening sounds,

Of the Archangel's trump new life impart,

Then the Great Judge his approbation founds,

Not on man's colour but his worth of heart.

In the picture below, you'll see that people lay little gifts and stones with messages on them beside the grave. Perhaps it's the overwhelming sense of guilt we should rightly feel that prompts people to pay homage to this single African slave? Or perhaps it's just the love of a sentimental story that pushes these little showings of affection and compassion for a boy who died so long ago. Whatever individual reasons people have for visiting and caring for Sambo's grave, they've prompted my own small scream of indignation into the wind at Sunderland Point.

More tomorrow about the wondrous place that is Sunderland Point. I have much to share about it, but refuse to spoil Sambo's post with such mundaneness tonight. But if you have any interest in reading more about Lancaster's links with the Slave trade, see my previous post on William Lindow.

p.s. Yesterday's post (what are they?) contained a picture of stones on sticks, onto which people have written little messages to Sambo and placed near his memorial. An example I saw there was: You left no footprints but we found you in our hearts. Diane.

William Lindow

William Lindow's grave, originally uploaded by Lancaster Today.

William Lindow was buried in the Rawlinson family grave, pictured above, in the north-west corner of Lancaster Priory churchyard (next to Lancaster Castle). By marrying Abigail Rawlinson, William - a sea captain for the family - joined Lancaster's principal merchant dynasty in the late 18th/early 19th century. (Inscriptions on the grave detailed here - see entry 435 under Rawlinson, Henry).

The Rawlinson family ships were involved in the slave trade, departing from Lancaster to trade slaves between islands in the West Indies and transport the fruits of slave labour. The slave trade's contribution to the fortunes of families like the Lindows and the Rawlinsons is the subject of Melinda Elder's book The Slave Trade and the Economic Development of 18th Century Lancaster.

According to Global Links' notes on their Lancaster Slave Trade town Trail , William and Abigail had a black servant - probably a slave - called John Chance who worked at their home in Queen Square. The home that 'John' served now houses a doctor's surgery and can be seen in this photo.

In reference to yesterday's post, it seems likely that William Lindow once owned the land now occupied by that area where his name is prominent on street signs. If you view the street map here, you can see the proximity of Lindow Square / Street to their house on Queen Street. I will verify this when I can.

See a portrait here of Mr and Mrs William Lindow 1772 by George Romney.

THANKS TO: Eric Wilkinson, archivist at Lancaster Castle, for the useful pointers yesterday.